Just like a car, a guitar is a machine that needs regular maintenance to be at its best and last you a long time.
Here are the basic maintenance steps you should be taking to keep your guitar looking and sounding beautiful!
Cleaning
Guitars get exposed to a lot of oil and dirt from hands. To keep your guitar clean, wash your hands before playing it – even if they look clean!
After you’re done playing, wipe off your guitar with a polishing cloth, giving a little extra love to the strings and hardware where your hands spend the most time. Keeping your strings clean will help them last longer.
The guitar knobs can trap dust and sweat, which will eventually cause a scratching sound. Turn the knob back and forth to loosen the gunk if this happens. You can also use a contact cleaner spray if this happens.
Storage
Being exposed to either heat or cold is bad for guitars. Extreme temperature changes can cause strings to go out of tune, or even cause the instrument to become warped. Store your guitar in a place where the temperature is moderate and the humidity is consistent (at 45 or 50 percent). Keeping the guitar stored in its case rather than on a stand or on the wall can help you regulate the guitar’s environment.
The lifespan of your guitar strings depends on what type of strings you’re using, how often you play and where you play. As a rule of thumb, you should be changing your strings at least once every three months, or whenever they look or feel dirty or are losing tone.
You should also be cleaning your strings regularly.
Fretboard maintenance
Whenever you change your strings, also give your fretboard a thorough cleaning. You can use a fretboard conditioner to keep it looking shiny. If your fretboard is made of maple, don’t use a conditioner as it can damage the finish – simply wipe it down with a microfiber towel.
Polishing
Keeping your guitar polished will make it look like it just came out of the box. Start by removing dust and fingerprints with a microfiber cloth, then spray the cloth with guitar polish and gently wipe down the guitar in circular motions. Don’t forget the back of the neck and the headstock.
If your finish is natural, matte, or satin, don’t use polish and instead wipe the guitar down with a polish cloth.
Guitar terminology can sound like a different language when you’re first starting out! Here is a list of terms you’ll need to know.
Action – Guitar action is the height of the guitar strings over the fretboard. Guitar action is important to pay attention to – if it’s too high, the guitar will be hard to play. If it’s too low, you’ll hear strings buzzing. A common mistake first-time guitar players make is not checking the action.
Alternate Picking – A picking technique that uses alternating downward and upward strokes. If you use alternate picking on a single string, it can be referred to as “tremolo picking”.
Alternate Tunings – There’s standard tuning (EADGBE) and there’s alternate tunings. Alternate tunings involve tuning your guitar in other ways. This can make it easier to play some riffs or power chords, and also change how chords sound. Check out this guide to alternate things here.
Amplifier – Also known as an amp, an amplifier is an electronic device that amplifies the sound of your guitar. It works by strengthening the electrical signal of your instrument’s pickups and produces that sound through a loudspeaker.
Arrangement – A musical adaptation of a piece of music. For example, artists performing a cover song might switch up the rhythm, key, or other aspects of the song to create a unique arrangement.
Arpeggio – Arpeggios are when the notes of a chord are played individually, one after the other, instead of at the same time.
Barre Chord – A barre chord is a chord that you play by pressing down multiple strings across the fretboard with one finger (creating a “bar” across the neck). Barre chords are used to play chords outside of the restrictions of the guitar’s open strings – F and B are some examples.
Beat – In music theory, a “beat” is a basic unit of time. If you were tapping your feet to a song, the “beat” would be each time you tap.
Bend – “Bending” a guitar string means pushing it across or over the fretboard so that the string gets tighter and the pitch gets higher. It’s a technique that’s frequently used in lots of genres of music.
Body – The guitar’s “body” is the part that contains the soundbox or pickups. There are different types of guitar bodies, and they can be made of different woods including rosewood, maple or walnut, which impacts their sound.
BPM – “Beats per minute”. The BPM tells you how fast a song is – the higher the BPM, the faster the song.
Bridge – A device that supports the guitar strings and transmits the strings’ vibration to another part of the instrument.
Bridge Pins – Bridge pins are used to anchor the strings to the bridge.
Capo – A capo is a small device that clamps onto the fretboard of a guitar to effectively shorten the strings, raising the pitch of the instrument. This allows you to play songs with open chords that you’d normally have to play with barre chords.
Chorus – Chorus is a type of effect that splits your guitar’s signal into multiple voices and slightly changes them, creating an effect that sounds like a choir of voices.
Cutaway – A cutaway is a part of the upper guitar body that’s indented near the neck, allowing easier access to the top frets. Different guitar designs have different styles of cutaways (or none at all).
Effects Pedal – An effects pedal is an electronic device that changes the sound of your instrument. Common types of effects pedals include distortion or overdrive pedals, compressors, “wah-wah” pedals, and reverb.
Fingerstyle – Fingerstyle means plucking the strings of your instrument directly with your fingers, rather than with a pick.
Fret – Frets are the strips of metal embedded along a guitar’s fretboard (found on the guitar neck). By holding the strings tightly against the fret, the vibrating length of the string changes, creating a specific note. Fretting can be a noun or a verb, meaning playing a note using a fret.
Fretboard – The part of the guitar where the finger presses the strings down (against the frets) to vary the pitch. It can also be known as the fingerboard.
Hammer-on – Hammer-ons are when you pick a note and “hammer” a second finger onto the same string on another fret to get a second note, without strumming a second time.
Harmonics – Harmonics are the overtones that are produced every time you play a note, however, you’ll rarely hear them over the fundamental note. A way to hear the overtones is by playing “pinch harmonics”.
Headstock – The headstock is the top of a guitar where the tuning pegs are kept.
Interval – An interval is the distance between the root note and another note on the fretboard. It’s the musical distance between two notes.
Intonation – Intonation means pitch accuracy – the extent to which the notes are in tune rather than being flat or sharp.
Inversion – An inversion is a chord where a different note than the root of the chord is the bottom note of the chord. It stays the same chord as the root position, but has a different voicing.
Key – The key of a piece of music is the scale, or group of pitches that makes up the song. A key can be in “major” or “minor” mode.
Lead Guitar – Lead guitar is the guitar part that plays the melody, licks, and riffs, rather than the chords.
Lick – A “lick” is a quick musical phrase played over a chord progressions. Licks are embellishments to a song.
Modulate – When you change keys within a composition.
Neck – The guitar’s neck includes the frets, fretboard, tuners, headstock, and truss rod. It’s the thinner piece of wood connected to the guitar body.
Open Chord – An open chord is a chord that is played with one or more strings not fingered and playing openly.
Open String – An open string is a guitar string that’s played without putting your hand on any of the frets.
Palm Muting – Palm muting is a guitar technique in which the side of the picking hand is placed against the guitar strings as they’re plucked, creating a “dampening” effect. It produces a muted sound.
Pedal – Guitar effect pedals are also known as “stomp-boxes”. They alter the tone or sound of your guitar with various effects.
Pentatonic Scale –A pentatonic scale has five notes per octave (pent) versus the seven notes per octave of the major or minor scale. Pentatonic scales can be major or minor, and are crucial to learn for most blues and rock music, as well as for learning to improvise.
Picking – The group of hand and finger techniques that a guitar player uses to make the strings vibrate, creating notes.
Pickups – A mechanism located on the guitar that captures the vibrations of the strings and converts them to an electric signal. The signal is then amplified through an amplifier to produce musical sounds.
P I M A – these letters represent the Spanish names for the fingers of the right hand: pulgar (thumb), indice (index), medio (middle), and anular (ring). They are used to indicate fingerings in classical music.
Pinch Harmonics – You know the “squealies” you sometimes hear during guitar solos? They’re created using pinch harmonics. Playing a string harmonic isolates the overtone of the string, creating a sound much higher than it would normally produce. Check out this guide to learn more about pinch harmonics and how to create them.
Pull-off – A pull-off is like a hammer-on, but backwards. If you’ve done a hammer-on with your finger on a second fret, pull that finger off, lightly pulling on the string as you do it and letting the note ring out.
Reverb – Reverb, short for “reverberation”, happens when soundwaves reflect off of surfaces in a room causing the soundwave reflections to hit your ear closely, so you can’t tell them apart. Effect pedals can create reverb for your guitar.
Riff – When referring to guitar, a riff is a short, memorable musical phrase which is memorable and creates energy and excitement. A riff is often the main hook of a song and is repeated throughout the song.
Root note – The root note is the first note of a chord (on guitar, it’s usually the lowest-sounding note). The root note defines the key of a chord.
Rhythm Guitar – A guitar part that consists of the chords of the song.
Scale Length – The scale length of your guitar is defined as the measure of distance between a guitar’s nut and its bridge. The “nut” is at the top of the neck, near the headstock, and the bridge is the device that supports the string below the neck. Check out this guide on scale length.
Setup – Adjusting a variety of guitar physical characteris to optimize the sound and can include changes to the action, bridge, and neck truss rod.
Slide – Slide guitar is a style of playing guitar often used in blues music. It involves playing guitar while using a hard object against the strings, creating vibrato effects.
Sustain – Sustain on a guitar refers to how long the guitar strings vibrate after you pluck them. This phenomenon can be enhanced with an effects pedal.
Standard Tuning – The typical tuning of a string instrument. For a guitar, standard tuning is E A D G B E.
Strap – A piece of material that holds the guitar onto your body. This makes it easier to focus on playing, as well as protecting your instrument from drops.
Strumming – Strumming is playing a guitar’s strings by moving your fingers lightly over them.
Tablature – Also known as “TABs”, tablature is a way of notating music that shows you which notes are being played on which string. It’s great for beginner guitarists to learn music quickly and easily.
Tapping – Guitar tapping is a method of playing that involves using your fingertips from your picking hand to hammer-on and pull off strings in the same way you would use your fretting hand.
Tempo – The speed of a piece of music.
Toggle Switch – On a guitar, the toggle switch controls which pickups convert the vibrations of the strings into electric signals. This allows the guitar to produce different sounds depending on which position the toggle switch is in.
Transcription – The process of arranging a piece of music for guitar.
Triad – A set of three notes that can be stacked in thirds.
Tremolo – Tremolo can either refer to an effect that creates a change in volume or the “tremolo arm” on a guitar, which creates a vibrato effect (varying pitch).
Truss Rod – The truss rod in a guitar is a steel bar or rod that stabilizes the neck. It’s located below the fingerboard.
Tuning Pegs – Usually located at the guitar’s headstock, tuning pegs are short sticks that are turned to make the strings looser or tighter.
Voicing – Voicing is the expression of a chord based on the order in which the tones are arranged. Playing E minor in the open position will give you a different voicing than E minor in a barre chord position.
Whammy Bar – Another word for a tremolo bar, a whammy bar is a lever attached to the bridge or the tailpiece of an electric guitar. It can be pushed to increase the tension of the strings, creating vibrato and other effects. Try this with the Dimebag Darrell Player Study Course.
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/28194627/1690861_Guitarglossarybloggraphic-560x315_V1_072623.jpg315560Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-07-28 19:46:562023-08-10 20:44:15Guitar terms you need to know
Pinch harmonics are a great tool to add a little extra flare to your guitar playing. It creates a high pitched “squeal” on an electric guitar. You usually hear pinch harmonics used in heavy rock or metal songs.
You can hear a good example of pinch harmonics in Van Halen’s “Panama”. Listen for the “squealies”.
What is a pinch harmonic?
When you pluck a guitar string normally, the sound you hear is mostly the fundamental frequency, or the lowest frequency of the soundwave. You’ll also hear overtones, which are frequencies greater than the fundamental frequency.
Playing a string harmonic isolates the overtone of the string, creating a sound much higher than it would normally produce.
How do I play a pinch harmonic?
To create a pinch harmonic, the thumb of your picking hand will lightly catch the string after it’s played.
You’ll need to “pinch” your pick, letting part of your thumb hang out over the top. As you strike the string, let your thumb graze the string, slightly muting it to cause a harmonic.
When it comes to using pinch harmonics, it’s all about location – find the spot on your guitar’s body where the string harmonics ring out most clearly. On the fretboard, the harmonics ring out most clearly on the third and fifth frets.
You’ll also want to use a lot of gain on your amplifier to help the note ring out. A tip – using the bridge pickup will help get more squeal out of your guitar!
Practice combining picking and muting the string in one fluid motion. It can take some time to get it!
Pinch harmonics aren’t the only type of harmonics you can use on a guitar.
Natural Harmonics – Natural harmonics are created by gently touching the string (rather than using pick) as you pick a fret. Natural harmonics are created using only the picking hand.
Artificial harmonics – This technique involves holding down a note with your fretting hand while using your right hand to create the same “soft touch” to create an open-string harmonic.
Tapped note – To create this effect, fret the note and use your picking hand to tap the harmonics further down the fretboard.
If your guitar heroes include Eddie Van Halen, Dimebag Darrell, Steve Vai, and other legendary shredders, learning how to use pinch harmonics is key to getting their sound.
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/21161301/AdobeStock_242146499-scaled.jpeg14632560Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-07-21 16:17:452023-07-21 16:17:45How to play pinch harmonics
The history of the guitar goes back really, really far.
The first precursor to the guitar, harp-like “lyres” date back to the beginning of recorded time, at least 3000 BCE. Naturally, the guitar has gone through plenty of nicknames over the years and in different areas of the world.
Here are a couple you may have heard of (or not!)
Ax/Axe
This is probably the most well-known guitar slang term. The term originated among jazz musicians in the 1950s. The term started out meaning a saxophone (sax/axe) and eventually became associated with other instruments, including guitars.
Six-string
Bryan Adams sang about purchasing his first real six-string in the 1985 song “Summer of ‘69”, but since most guitars have six-strings, we can assume he didn’t come up with the term.
“Guitfiddle” is an old term for guitar. It was mostly used in the Southern United States.
Gat
If you’re in New Zealand, you might hear the term “gat” referring to a guitar.
Keppi
Keppi is Finnish slang for “guitar”. It literally translates as “stick”.
Jazz box
“Jazz box” refers to a type of electric guitar that was used in big band ensembles through the 1930s.
https://www.fretzealot.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/AdobeStock_315015170.jpeg61928256Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-07-17 14:57:592023-07-17 17:32:22Slang words meaning “guitar”
It’s not just a cliche – practice really does make perfect. The greatest guitar players of all time didn’t just pick up an instrument and start playing – it takes time and effort to get good at guitar.
When you’re first starting out, it’s natural to get frustrated or not want to practice, but working on your instrument, even a little bit every day, will help you get better at it.
Ideally, you should be practicing guitar 30 minutes to 90 minutes a day, but that’s not always feasible for people with busy schedules. However, even carving out 10 minutes of time on a busy day to practice will help you build dexterity, knowledge, and skills.
Here are some tips to motivate yourself to practice.
Set a goal
Do you want to shred like Eddie Van Halen? Maybe you want to master prog rock like Tosin Abasi of Animals as Leaders or play intense riffs like Tom Morello. Setting yourself a concrete goal (like, “I want to be able to play “Eruption”) will help motivate you to pick up your guitar every day.
Play songs you like
A lot of guitar teachers start their students off on songs like “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star” – not exactly riveting material.
Make a list of songs that you want to learn by your favorite artists and work your way through them. Don’t be afraid to play them slower than originally recorded to get the hang of it.
Fret Zealot has hundreds of guitar courses available. You can choose the learning style that works best for you, whether that’s learning the fundamentals of music theory first, or diving right into daily exercises with the Guitar Gym. You get to pick your own curriculum with Fret Zealot, so you’re not stuck just playing the same scales over and over.
Cultivate a positive mindset about guitar
Above everything else, learning guitar should be FUN – it shouldn’t be a chore! No one gets great at guitar overnight, so don’t be hard on yourself. Take it one note at a time.
Avoid distractions
A text message or social media notification can derail you from a great practice session. Set yourself an alarm for 30 minutes (or however long you want to devote to guitar in that session) and mute your notifications until you’re done! You can also minimize distractions by playing at “weird hours” late at night or early in the morning – just use headphones.
Play with other people
Playing with other musicians will give you a sense for playing in real time and matching other musicians’ cues. It will motivate you to get better at your craft all around, as well as give you confidence in your abilities.
Go to live music events
If you’re feeling blah about picking up your guitar, go check out a local band or open mic night in your town. Watching other musicians play is a great way to regain your motivation.
Pencil practice into your routine
Practicing sporadically won’t help you reach your guitar goals in a timely matter. Take a look at your schedule and see what times and days you can realistically put aside to practice – and then stick to that schedule.
Leave yourself notes
Leaving inspirational messages or just reminders on Post-It notes where you’ll see them is a helpful tool to remember to practice (and to remember why you want to play guitar).
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/13155425/AdobeStock_600134032-scaled.jpeg17072560Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-07-13 16:00:522023-07-13 16:00:52How to motivate yourself to practice guitar every day
Every new guitar player is going to make some mistakes in their learning journey. Here are the three most common mistakes – and how you can avoid them!
Not tuning your guitar or playing with old strings
Your guitar has to be playable for you to really learn how to play. Many first-time guitar players use old guitars that may have belonged to a friend or relative and have been sitting unused for years.
You should also make sure that the action is good. Action is the distance between the strings and the fretboard. If your action is too high, the strings will be too far from the fretboard, making it difficult to press the strings down. If it’s too low, they will be too close to the fretboard and may not be able to ring out clearly.
To check the action, hold down the low E string at the first fret and measure the distance from the string and the 7th fret. It should be about 3/32 of an inch, or 2.38mm. If it’s greater than that, it’s too high, and if it’s less than that, it’s too low.
You should be able to fix the action on a guitar fairly easily using online tutorials, or take it in to your local guitar shop for help.
Not letting each note ring out while playing chords
When you’re learning a chord, make sure to hit each note and let them ring out. That way, you’ll be sure that you’re hitting each note correctly (with no buzzing or muted notes) and you’ll get used to the sound of each chord.
Having good posture will make a huge difference in your guitar learning experience. It can be tempting to hold your guitar facing you at first to better see the fretboard.
Sit up straight with your spine aligned and make sure that your guitar is upright on your right leg (or left leg if you’re a lefty). Rest your thumb on the back of the guitar neck. Use a guitar strap even if you’re sitting to avoid the guitar slipping.
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/10190950/AdobeStock_329757181-scaled.jpeg17072560Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-07-10 19:10:582023-07-28 18:09:06The top three mistakes new guitar players make – and how to avoid them
Let’s start with the absolute basics. “Happy Birthday” might not be the hardest rocking song, but it will come in handy for birthday parties for years to come!
This is Fret Zealot’s most popular song lesson – for a reason! This lesson will take you step-by-step through the simple power chords you need to play this AC/DC smash hit.
You only need a couple of chords to master this beloved Fleetwood Mac hit, and the song lesson will walk you through the strumming pattern step-by-step! It also includes the guitar solo if you’re up for a challenge.
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/01141723/bg1.jpg7001280Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-07-06 15:13:552023-07-28 18:53:10The best guitar songs for beginners
If this question is giving you flashbacks to high school math class, don’t worry. We’ll walk you through it.
Most guitar and bass fingerboards are not completely flat – they have a slight convex curvature.
The back of the guitar neck is even more rounded usually, making for a comfortable grip.
Measuring the Radius of Your Fretboard As you probably remember from math class, the ‘radius’ is the distance from the center to the circumference (or edge) of a circle. To find the radius of a fingerboard, picture the fingerboard at the top of the circle and determine the arc from one edge to the other.
You can use a guitar under string radius gauge to determine the radius of your guitar’s fingerboard. If you don’t have one, you can simply use a piece of string.
To do this, find the fretboard’s centerpoint by measuring the distance between the nut and the 12th fret.
Then, place the string on the centerpoint, holding it down on the first and last fret. Measure the distance between the string and the 7th fret. This is the radius of the fretboard.
The smaller the measurement of the radius, the greater the curvature of the fingerboard.
The Why Behind Fretboard Designs Fretboard radius is usually measured in inches, and the most common sizes on the market are 9.5”, 7.25” and 12”. Some go as high as 17” or 20”. The larger the radius the more “flat” the fretboard will feel. Smaller, more curved radius gives the guitar a comfortable grip and lets your finger curve naturally when playing bar chords. Vintage instruments such as vintage era Fender guitars use a radius as small as 7.5” which creates a classic comfort and feel that many players greatly appreciate today. Larger radius necks keep the feel of the neck more flat, which makes niceley for sweeping through arpeggios and scales across the strings. Many high performance, modern guitars use larger fretboard radius. However, the feel of the neck can be a little less comfortable for playing bar chords or having a relaxed grip on the neck. Some guitars even use a compound-radius fretboard. This means that the fretboard radius will gradually change from a lower (more curved) to a higher (flatter) radius as you go from the nut to the heel of the neck.
There’s no hard-and-fast rules about which fingerboard radius is right for particular genres or playing style, however, the rounder fingerboards are usually well-suited for barre chords and flatter fingerboard radii gives a more even playing surface, ideal for string bending and sweeping.
The Bridge You might not have realized it, but since the fretboard is curved, the strings don’t actually sit at the same height. Your strings are positioned at equal height above the fretboard, which means the string saddles need to match the curvature of your neck. The string saddles on many guitars have adjustable heights, which allow you to fix the action and ensure the strings match the curvature of the neck. If your guitar neck was perfectly flat (no radius), then the strings would sit at the same height, but there are no guitars with flat necks (that we know of!)
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/28135353/guitar-fingerboard.jpg6841024Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-06-28 14:47:592023-06-28 14:47:59Why does fingerboard radius matter?
Electric guitars come in many different shapes and sizes. Like their acoustic counterparts, the size and shape of an electric guitar can impact their sound and playability.
Here are some of the most common varieties of electric guitar bodies:
Type of body:
Each type of guitar canhave a variety of shapes and styles. Most guitars fall under either solid body, semi-hollow body, or hollow body.
Solid body:Solid body guitars have no internal chambers – sound is generated solely from the pickups. Solid body guitars are also made out of a solid piece of wood. As a result, they’re usually fairly heavy.
Solid body guitars were introduced in the 1950s. They offer more sustain than their hollow-body counterparts, and are less impacted by feedback.
Here are some of the best-known solid body guitars:
Stratocaster
Designed by Fender, the Stratocaster features a double-cutaway design with one side extended into a “horn”, which provides balance. The double cutaway allows the player better access to the guitar’s highest frets. Though this is the shape most people picture when they think “electric guitar”, it was a revolutionary design when it was first introduced in the mid-1950s.
Telecaster
Also designed by Fender, Telecaster was the world’s first commercially successful mass-produced electric guitar. Also known as “Tele”, it was originally called “Broadcaster”. The telecaster design features a flat asymmetric single-cutaway body.
The SG Standard is Gibson’s best selling model of all time. It has a contoured design with a double cutaway to make the upper frets more accessible.
“Superstrat”
With deeper cutaways, longer fretboards, and overall pointier bodies, guitar variations known as “Superstrats” became popular with rock stars in the 1980s.
Semi-hollow body
Semi-hollow body guitars have chambers cut into the wood which makes them lighter and gives them a slightly warmer tone. Semi-hollow body guitars work well across many genres of music.
The best known of semi-hollow body guitars is:
Gibson ES-335
The Gibson ES-335 was the first semi-hollow guitar on the market. It features two bouts that are hollow and two violin-style f-holes cut over the hollow chambers. Its best-known user was the King of Blues, B.B. King.
Hollow body
“Guitar: Eastman Vintage Sunburst Hollow Body Electric” by jmf1007 is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
The original electric guitar, Rickenbacker’s Electro-A22, was a hollow body guitar. Hollow body guitars were favored by big band and jazz musicians in the 1930s – however, their hollow bodies created a lot of feedback when they were played at higher volumes.
Gibson ES-150
“File:11, ES 150 & Fender Amp.jpg” by Europe guitar collection is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.
The Gibson ES-150 was the world’s first commercially successful Spanish-style electric guitar. ES stands for “electric Spanish”.
https://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/15132354/AdobeStock_289919600-scaled.jpeg7682560Kaley Lynchhttps://fz-wp-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/logo.pngKaley Lynch2023-06-15 13:48:522023-06-15 13:51:10Different types of electric guitar bodies
Hey what’s up everyone, this is Shane from Fret Zealot and right now I’m rocking a Yamaha bas. This is the Yamaha BB234.
The BB stands for “broad bass” and this is the 234, which is the classic rendition of the BB Yamaha bass. It’s stripped down and versatile is what I would say. It’s got two pickup selections to choose from – the J pickup on the bridge position and then the P pick up in the middle position, giving you a variety of really nice tonal options. Each pickup is individually controlled by a volume knob, so you can dial back the volume on both of these and run them at the same time, one or the other as well and then the tone knob back here, which when you when you roll that down it pulls back a little bit of the low frequencies and sort of just tightens up the sound of the bass a little bit. It gets a little a little cleaner sounding a little less extra bass I usually like to leave it wide open.
You definitely get the most brightness when you leave the tone knob up all the way. When you turn it down, it sort of it sounds like outside the club, like a little bit more softer sounding. I think it would be nice for a bit more of a mellow sound. Moving on to the to the features of the guitar itself, the pick guard on the body with the black gloss finish just looks classy and I find it very comfortable feeling as well. This cutaway body the cut on the back of the body which just rests up against you and very ergonomic. Again, the cutaway up here, as well easy fret access up to the 21st fret. There are 21 frets on this guitar but just gives you a nice comfortable scale length to work with. If this is your first bass, I think it’s a really good choice because it’s very very comfortable. And if it’s not your first bass, you might be interested in the different pickup options that you’re going to get when you try the BB234.
The body wood material is alder, the neck maple, and then on the top of the neck the fretboard itself rosewood. It has a matching black headstock painted black with the four Yamaha tuners, strap pegs, bolt-on neck construction, and a surface mount bridge back here. Other than that, you get a really nice variety of tones from these ceramic Yamaha pickups. Again, with the P pickup you get a really sweet sort of heavier sound. I think it sounds a little darker.
Turn that knob all the way down and then we’ll turn up the J pickup. It definitely gives me a bit more treble. It kind of sounds both of them sound like like a nice woody, sort of clean bass sound, which I really like. All passive hardware, there’s no battery compartment to run these pickups, so it’s not very temperamental. It’ll give you an easy playing time, very comfortable and and fun to play with.
Bass is not really my main instrument so I was picking out some of the options at our shop on frontzealot.com for what I wanted to pick out and review first. This one sort of jumped out at me as approachable, but also kind of versatile, and a fun way for me to sort of learn the ins and outs of bass. Getting to play with both the J pickup back here and the P pickup, learning about the differences. It’s got a nice pick guard too. I know that I would probably as a guitar player, use a pick to play bass. I think the combination with the p pickup, the pickguard works really great for rock. If you want to dial it back and play some more mellower tones, you have all the options of doing that. This bass will really do a good job from anything – hard rock, classic rock, all the way down to jazz and blues. I believe I can tell from playing the time that I spent with this bass that is very versatile. I’m definitely a fan of the BB234. It comes in a couple different color options. We have black and red at fretzealot.com and when you buy an instrument at fretzealot.com, it comes pre-installed with the LED system, so you can get access to our learning tools which show you how to play and light up the way to learning. You can learn how to play any song you want on bass.
This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies, and sharing of this data with our advertising partners.
We may request cookies to be set on your device. We use cookies to let us know when you visit our websites, how you interact with us, to enrich your user experience, and to customize your relationship with our website.
Click on the different category headings to find out more. You can also change some of your preferences. Note that blocking some types of cookies may impact your experience on our websites and the services we are able to offer.
Essential Website Cookies
These cookies are strictly necessary to provide you with services available through our website and to use some of its features.
Because these cookies are strictly necessary to deliver the website, refusing them will have impact how our site functions. You always can block or delete cookies by changing your browser settings and force blocking all cookies on this website. But this will always prompt you to accept/refuse cookies when revisiting our site.
We fully respect if you want to refuse cookies but to avoid asking you again and again kindly allow us to store a cookie for that. You are free to opt out any time or opt in for other cookies to get a better experience. If you refuse cookies we will remove all set cookies in our domain.
We provide you with a list of stored cookies on your computer in our domain so you can check what we stored. Due to security reasons we are not able to show or modify cookies from other domains. You can check these in your browser security settings.
Other external services
We also use different external services like Google Webfonts, Google Maps, and external Video providers. Since these providers may collect personal data like your IP address we allow you to block them here. Please be aware that this might heavily reduce the functionality and appearance of our site. Changes will take effect once you reload the page.
Google Webfont Settings:
Google Map Settings:
Google reCaptcha Settings:
Vimeo and Youtube video embeds:
Privacy Policy
You can read about our cookies and privacy settings in detail on our Privacy Policy Page.